I know... if I were going to buy a V220.. that would pretty much be the ultimate. Set neck, Gibson scale, koa rather than maple (which pushes it into the mahogany zone, only better, and in terms of koa, this super-old, super chatoyant, super stripey stuff has the best odds of delivering magic), which puts the guitar right where it should be tonally (at least if you're looking for a sound in the Explorer ballpark.. this will get you there and improve in every way.. sound-wise, build-quality-wise, looks-wise, everything wise).
Circling back to another convo about figuring and tonewood: THIS is an area, or kind of guitar, where I think wood figuring can absolutely make a difference: the entire body wood, especially with no top and the whole slab can ring free. There are all different cuts and ages of koa which usually result in all different kinds of sound mileage out of a guitar. This stuff I've found tends to give the best likelihood of getting you all the qualities that the best koa is famous for.
And this is the kind of guitar where I think dejablu's statement about the things Jeff said about quilt versus plain maple, creating increased midrange response of one versus the other... on a guitar like this where it's all made of that one wood, where you'll definitely experience those variations the most, from one to the other with all else being equal. There are plain maple versions of this guitar, flamed maple, quilted maple, etc tec. And within these figuring variations you'll get those difference in focus in sound.
1985 DC150K (koa) Stereo, M22N/M22SD w/black hardware.
1985 100 Watt X Amp 2 x 12 combo (XV212) upgraded w/ 2 Vintage 30's
...and other gear.https://soundcloud.com/the_heavy_clouds